Reverse Engineering Products - Teaching Design with the SDGs by Dr Claire Lerpiniere

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Dr Claire Lerpiniere of De Montfort University shares her approach to teaching with the UN Global Goals for sustainable development as part of an event 'Human Rights in the Fashion and Textiles Supply Chain' that took place at the University of Portsmouth on 30th April 2019 in support of the Fashion Revolution campaign.
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  • 1. Reverse Engineering Products – Teaching Design with the SDGs Dr Claire Lerpiniere – School of Design clerpiniere@dmu.ac.uk
  • 2. ‘The Story of a Garment’ The briefing • Explore an existing product, and consider how you could innovate through the design process • Work backwards from the completed garment, to the initial inspiration, to design something innovative and sustainable • Identify your own interests and priorities in relation to the UN Sustainable Development Goals
  • 3. Seminars to support creative problem-solving • Garment life cycle • Sustainability and ethical issues in fibre, textile and garment production • Global and local supply chains from fibre to consumer • Emotional connection • Durability and longevity • Textile design training and analytical skills
  • 4. Step 1: Production and Manufacturing How was the product made? • Can you identify all of the processes involved in making the product? • Do you think all processes were performed in the same country? If not, where were they completed? Why were they selected? • Is this a sustainable / ethical manufacturing practice? Think back to your research file findings and your pathway rotations (weave, knit, mixed media, print) AND this project’s seminars to consider alternatives
  • 5. Step 1: Production and Manufacturing Where was the product manufactured? • Can you tell from the label or find the producer/retailer online? • What can you find out about the textile industry in the country of origin? • Can you identify any benefits/problems within the manufacturing location?
  • 6. Step 1: Production and Manufacturing Why were the materials selected? • Was it for functional purposes? • Have they been selected because they are cheap or luxurious? • Were the materials selected for decorative purposes? Are they practical, will the materials last? • What fibres / yarns / trims could have been used instead? Are the materials sustainable? Are they ethically sourced?
  • 7. Woven fabric with a traditional tartan design, blend of : • 69% polyester • 29% viscose • 2% elastane • Made in Portugal Student Project: ‘Production and Manufacturing’
  • 8. Student Project: ‘The fabric’ The exact suppliers for polyester, viscose and elastane fabric or trims used to manufacture the dress are not disclosed. Zara scored 36% on the 2017 Fashion Transparency Index http://static.inditex.com/annual_report_2016/en/our-priorities/sustainable-management-of-the-supply-chain/strategic-plan-2014-2018-2016-review.php
  • 9. Step 2: Tell the story of your garment From the brief • In addition to its physical appearance as a product, how does it make you feel? • Does it connect you to an emotion? • What is it like to wear? • Does it remind you of a person, an event, a location, a time, a memory?
  • 10. Student Project: ‘Why this dress?’ • I first fell in love with the traditional and timeless grey tartan design and the feel of the fabric. • It has a bit of a Balenciaga inspiration, that I love, in its design with the puffy cascade sleeves, a unique tailoring in my wardrobe. • It feels and wears very comfortably and it has a heavy weight and luxurious feel. • It has a timeless design. • It was on SALE! £19.99. Original price, £59.99
  • 11. Step 3: Concept Board From the brief • If you were to redesign the product, what would you do? What would happen if you used completely different materials? • Are there any particular issues that need resolving, to make it a better garment, more sustainable, or part of the circular economy? • • How could you extend the life of the garment, so it doesn’t become ‘fast fashion’ and discarded after 7 wears? Include: fabric swatches, images, colour, texture, detailing, fastenings, functional elements, decorative elements, ideas, and imagination
  • 12. Student Project: ‘A Sustainable Approach – Newlife yarn’ Newlife, by Saluzzo Yarns, is a fibre made of 100% post-consumer recycled plastic bottles. The plastic is converted into a polymer which can be used for outdoor clothing, home furnishing as well as interior and outdoor design applications. It is made in Italy from Italian plastic waste. • Manufacturing process is highly innovative, • Fully traceable supply chain • Entirely mechanical recovery (versus chemical) • Sustainable and high quality yarn https://inhabitat.com/ecouterre/max-mara-adds-recycled-polyester-to-its-weekend-clothing-line/
  • 13. Student Project: ‘Redesign Concept Board’ I would add POCKETS and use Newlife Yarn to create the Tartan Weave, instead of the current fabric which is: • Polyester (disperse dyes) – retains its shape and resists wrinkles • Viscose (direct dyes) – it gives a soft and smooth finish • Elastane (acid dyes) – gives the woven fabric a permanent elasticity • The fabric blend is not widely or easily recyclable. End of lifecycle: The dress could be upcycled, as it has an abundance of fabric for a potential redesign, or recycled, if using Newlife Yarn Fabric Polyester Viscose Elastane
  • 14. • I am now an educated consumer • I have the knowledge to make informed decisions regarding sustainability and ethical sourcing and manufacturing • I want to know who made my clothes and where • I buy clothes that are well made, with good design that will last more than a season Student Project: ‘Story of a Garment – What have I learned?’
  • 15. ‘Reverse Engineering Products – Teaching Design with the SDGs’ Questions welcome Dr Claire Lerpiniere – School of Design clerpiniere@dmu.ac.uk
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